Before putting it back in the hub, I metered it and it showed 1.4kohm again. I took a little wire brush and gently cleaned it until it was shiny and clean. The end of the sensor was full of crap and rust. I put some oil on it and took a pair of vise grips to the metal bracket, NOT the plastic part of the sensor, and slowly twisted it back and forth until it came out. I removed the bolt, but the sensor was still stuck tight inside. The rear sensor has 1 bolt holding it onto the hub. When I spun the wheel, I got no AC voltage. When I metered the 2 wires, I was expecting 1.4kohms. My 2 front ones checked out fine and now I was working on my rear drivers side sensor. They are located on the side walls behind the back seats and you will have to remove all the plastic panels in your trunk to gain access to them. The rear sensors are the same, except it is more difficult to get to the connectors. Plug your connector back together and go do the other side. If you get all these readings, then your sensor is operating correctly and all is well with that one. Of course you will get a higher or lower reading if you spin the wheel faster or slower. Spin the tire and you should get around 300 millivolts. Ok, to test if all is working, keep the meter attached to the sensor connector and set the meter to AC millivolts. You can actually see this gear, on the rear hubs anyway. The sensor is placed close to a ring gear and will send pulses out as one of the teeth on the gear passes over the sensor. This should tell you that the sensor itself is fine. You should read approximately 1400 ohms (1.4 k-ohms). Now, meter the resistance between the 2 wires on the connector. Verify this by metering the resistance of each wire to chassis ground. The sensors are nothing more than a long wire coiled at the end. There should only be 2 wires on the connector. We want to test the connector that goes to the sensor !!! We are checking for bad sensors. Unplug the connector for one of the sensors. Put the shifter into neutral so the wheels can spin freely. The connectors are at each corner of the engine bay beside the firewall. The front wheel sensors are located on the rear of the hubs, have 2 wires that go up through the wheel well and into the engine bay. I never worked on one, or even seen one in my life, so this was going to be fun. I checked the fluid, and the brakes were working fine.Īfter some research I figured it was a wheel sensor. The ABS and Brake light came on and stayed on. I have a 2003 Protege 5 hatchback with auto trans and 2 litre engine. I had to dive in blind and figure it out. Well, since no one replied to my various posts on how to determine which wheel sensor is bad.
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